旗袍，中西合璧的服饰文化（英）

　　旗袍，有着高挺有型的立领和斜开的门襟，讲究的盘扣将立领和门襟的两侧完美闭合，形成一种独特的精气神。旗袍，有着圆润柔和的轮廓和线条，将人体曲线的曼妙敲到好处地展现出来，既有浪漫的情致，又不失优雅端庄的气韵。行走间，轻盈摇曳的下摆，忽隐忽现的风情，赋予了旗袍一种难以抗拒的魔力。 旗袍独特的轮廓里，蕴藏着中国传统服饰和西方传统服饰两股灵魂，传统中不失现代感的样式，浪漫中又平添端庄大气的风韵，是中国手工艺人智慧里最别致的灵感，也是中国服饰文化中极为惊艳的一抹亮色，更是中西服饰文化完美融合的产物。 The Chi-pao is a traditional Chinese dress with many variations in terms of style. Generally， it features stand-up collar and sideway button placket， which are perfectly closed by exquisite， knotted buttons， forming a unique style. Its flexible， soft outlines highlight the female body curve in a romantic and elegant manner. Dressed in a Chi-pao， a woman looks extremely charming while walking gracefully. The Chi-pao contains two souls - traditional Chinese clothing and traditional Western clothing. The Chi-pao， modern and traditional in style， is the most unique inspiration in the wisdom of Chinese craftsmen， and a shining page in the Chinese clothing culture. The Chi-pao represents and symbolizes China’s profound traditional culture， as well as the merging of the two kinds of traditional clothing cultures.

　　艺阳，毕业于北京服装学院服装设计专业，中国服装设计师协会会员，曾受邀参与过2014年APEC会议领导人服装设计。设计作品曾在《时尚芭莎》《男人装》等时尚杂志刊登，并登上过北京卫视时尚装苑、央视二套消费主张等电视栏目，还与刘烨、大张伟、阿朵、杨丽萍、冯晓泉、曾格格、汪峰等合作。 Yi Yang， graduated from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology majoring in fashion design， is a member of China Fashion Designers Association and was invited to participate in the 2014 APEC meeting leaders' fashion design. Her design works have been published in fashion magazines such as Bazaar and FOR HIM MAGAZINE， and appeared in Fashion Circles of BTV and Consumption Advocate of CCTV 2， where cooperated with Liu Ye， Da Zhang Wei， A Duo， Yang Liping， Feng Xiaoquan， Zeng Gege， Wang Feng and so on.

Contents 
Preface.......................................................................................01
Chapter I Origins of the Chi-pao 
Section 1 Early History of the Chi-pao......................................................002 
Section 2 The Female Robes of the Eight Banners......................................007 
Section 3 ‘Flowerpot-sole Shoes’, the Scenery Beneath the Chi-pao............018 
Section 4 Rose Rouge and the Great-wing Hairstyle...................................022 
Section 5 The Coexistence of Manchu and Han Female Clothing Culture ....030 
Section 6 Predestined Relationship Between the Chi-pao and Ancient Robes...035 
Section 7 The World of Robes.................................................................043
Chapter II The Breakthrough of Chi-pao 
Section 1 The Transformation from the Robe to Chi-pao............................050 
Section 2 The Chi-pao’s Premiere ............................................................053 
Section 3 Encounter of Chinese and Western Costume Cultures at Historical Juncture...........056 
Section 4 Modern Chi-pao: the Blend Beauty of China and the West..........069 
Section 5 Chi-pao, the Most Popular Fashion in the Republic of China.......076 
Section 6 Face Powder, Silk Stockings and Perm Curls that Match the Old Shanghai Chi-pao.....086 
Section 7 Elegance of the Traditional Chi-pao and Romance of the New-Style Chi-pao...........096 
Chapter III The Memory of Fashion-leading Chi-pao 
Section 1 Magazines Leading a Fashion Life in the Republic of China.........102 
Section 2 Indissoluble Bound to Su-Guang Garment Shop.........................109 
Section 3 Chi-pao Printed in Pictures.......................................................113
Section 4 Wearing Chi-pao as Wedding Clothes.......................................119 
Section 5 Beauties Setting the Trend of Chi-pao in China’s Republican Period....124 
Section 6 Chi-pao Beauties Framed by the Camera...................................138 
Chapter IV The Craftsmanship of Chi-pao 
Section 1 The Traditional Knotted Button—the Soul of Chi-pao..................144 
Section 2 Embroidery, a Nice Touch of Chi-pao.........................................151 
Section 3 Different Fabrics Show Different Styles of Chi-pao.......................159 
Section 4 Flexible Yajin and Unique Brooch of Chi-pao.............................173 
Chapter V Chi-pao’s New Styles 
Section 1 Revival of Genuine Craftsmanship.............................................182 
Section 2 Chi-pao Sending Chinese Blessings at Wedding Ceremony.........195 
Section 3 The Revival of Chi-pao............................................................200
Section 4 Chi-pao, From Dethronement to Reinvigoration..........................205 
Appendix A Brief Chinese Chronology......................................................21